With Dior, Eyeliner Gets Playful at Paris Fashion Week

It’s up to Peter Philips to turn a universal beauty motif like the ’60s eye into a statement for the modern era: in negative space lies the opportunity for freedom of expression.

Picking up on the gold “half-liner” seen at Dior’s haute couture show in July and Maria Grazia Chiuri’s inspirations for the spring-summer 2022 collection—namely the Piper Club, Rome’s hot boîte of the day—Christian Dior Makeup established a beauty statement that also suggested the power of individualism.

“I continually innovating eyeliner for Maria Grazia, and it’s incredibly enjoyable every time we find something new to play with,” Philips said backstage before the concert. “She told to me, ‘I like the space between,’” he explained, “and with a diverse cast of 90 models, she knew it would look beautiful on everyone, exactly like the ponytail with a flick.”

Making use of Diorshow Philips created two sweeping lines on Stage Liner, filled in the divide with kohl tones a shade or two lighter than the models’ natural skin tone, then “dressed” the eyelids with Mono Couleur Couture shadow. Backstage Face & Body Foundation, talc-free Backstage Face & Body Powder-No-Powder, and Rouge Dior Lip Balm were used to retain the focus on the eyes.

On the subject of eyes, the makeup artist said that, similar to his use of “outer-eye liner” in today’s show, the recent re-emergence of under-eye liner—another technique he’s frequently employed for Dior—opens up a world of possibilities.

“If I need to use liner to create one look, I need to be practical about it. A double liner looks fun and it suits everybody,” he noted. “Then, if you want you can go in there with colors or dégradé. The space between opens up room to play.”

Photo Source: Photographed by Christina Fragkou / @cris.fragkou

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